Mitsubishi WD-65831 "Air Flow" Problem

Readers of the blog first started reporting the problem in this thread. I didn’t think too much of it at the time, but now I’m on the 4th day of my TV turning itself off because of “Air Flow”.

Following my First Incident with getting a replacement and now this White Blooming issue going on I’m starting to get flat out pissed off now.

So far the solution for me with the air flow problem seems to be just letting the TV shut off, then turning it on a number of times until it decides to stay on. I’m going to dig into this on AVS and see what’s up, I will keep you posted.

Update #1: This guy said he took the lamp out, and found dust on the filter and blew it off to fix the problem. I will try that if it happens again. (NOTE: I tried this, it didn’t change anything)

Update #2: All the AVS owner thread issues, and some confirmation that it’s a known issue.

Update #3: Here it is, it looks to be a problem with one of the two temperature sensors on the light housing. Apparently it’s a known issue with Mitsubishi so they should know exactly what to fix.

Update #4: A buddy of mine, Chris Hunkele, has the WD-65831 as well and noticed just about the same time I did that he was getting the “Air Flow” issue as well. He stuck a small fan next to his air intake and a temperature gauge and noticed that it doesn’t start happening until the house is around 77 degress, which is almost exactly when I start to notice it as well. Now I’m starting to think this isn’t a problem as much as a honest-to-god issue that the TV is getting too hot. I had no idea it would be so limiting… hmmm.

Update #5: Well the TV is dead now and won’t stay on for more than 10 seconds before shutting off. I even tried a huge fan right next to it… I think the temperature gauges are shot.

Update #6: Larry just followed up with the official announcement from Mitsubishi that they are extending under-warranty repairs for the defective thermal sensors up to 2 years beyond the original 1 year warranty:

Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc (MDEA) 2006 DLP® Projection Televisions Models: WD-52631, WD-57731, WD-65731, WD-Y57, WD-Y65, WD-57732, WD- 65732, WD-57831, WD-65831.

As part of our commitment to quality and customer satisfaction, MDEA is announcing an extension of the warranty coverage to replace the thermal sensor for the above referenced models. For a period of two additional years beyond the one year limited warranty, MDEA will cover the cost of the thermal sensor (parts and labor) at no charge. All other terms of the MDEA limited warranty will continue to apply.

Update #7: The comments for this post have been growing, with a lot of conversation around the updated light housing in the WD-xxx35 series of sets from Mitsubishi. For example the WD-65835 and so on.

As reader Bob has pointed out, this light housing got a total rework with housing design, lamp model and with some revised ventilation as well. Bob has been kind enough to include a picture of the rear/side of the WD-65835 for folks to take a peek at, thanks Bob!


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307 Responses to Mitsubishi WD-65831 "Air Flow" Problem

  1. Riyad Kalla February 20, 2009 at 5:33 pm #


    I thought I was going flipping crazy — I’ve been squinting more and more with my WD-65831 to see detail and noticed that I have my contrast turned to 100, brightness to 32 and playing Condemned (1 and 2) and FEAR 2 (all dark games) I ended up driving their brightness up to 75% or so (default is 40-50% in-game setting).

    Most scenes are washed out now but with that brightness off I literally cannot see anything — it’s damn frustrating and I thought it was my lamp-life… I got into the service menu that shows the total time on the bulb and I’m just shy of 2100 — hardly impressive and no where near the 5-8000 hrs quoted for the bulb.

    Tom, while you might be able to pick up the KURO cheap because Pioneer and Vizio are calling it quites on the Plasma market, Panasonic might give you a better bang for your buck as they are one of the only 2 that are sticking to their Plasma-game.

    I think I’d lean towards an LCD because of the light output, but there just isn’t anything reasonably priced with excellent performance beyond 52″ this year… by mid-year and EOY we are suppose to have a lot of 65″ LCD choices, but god knows those will all start off life at $3k+ and not be a bargain until next year.

    Your choice with a big, high quality plasma is probably the right way to go here.

    Just my 2 cents.

    • Jim March 15, 2011 at 6:04 am #

      Came across your comments and stuff when I was searching for any new info about my WD65735 dlprptv. I tell you, I love my Mitsubishi, wouldn’t trade it for anything,but when I landed a great job with great pay, I decided to buy my Dad a bigscreen (53″ etc) for his birthday. I wound up getting a ~53″ Plasma from Panasonic. I had the store deliver it and set it all up. He was stunned to say the least lol, but when we turned it on for the first time (I never saw it in the store, I bought it by phone through my cousin who was a Mgr there) we were both absolutely amazed at how clear the picture was. To this day I haven’t seen a picture better!

  2. Bob February 20, 2009 at 8:05 pm #

    It sounds like your light engine has become contaminated and needs to be replaced. Have you managed to look at the previous lamp(s) closely after they failed? The last lamp that failed on my set actually melted the glass to the point where its focal point was off-center. When the glass cooled, it developed micro-cracks in the surface and leaked the high-pressure gas inside. This gas contains mercury and recontaminated a brand new light engine. The symptoms were similar to yours – bright objects surrounded by dark background have a halo effect around the bright objects…poor overall contrast…very poor low level contrast & detail.

  3. Tom February 20, 2009 at 9:08 pm #

    Yes I did check the bulb and it did not melt at all.I do think the light engine is contaminated in some way but I really don’t think I want to pay to get it fixed or clean the lens myself.I just don’t think I’ll ever get this TV to look as good as it did or as good as the newer lcd’s,plasma’s look.Man I bought this TV for 3k when it came out and the picture was absolutely incredible.I thought that I was set for at least 5-6 years but when it comes to my HT gear I can’t settle.I guess this gives me a good excuse to buy something new which would probably be the Kuro.

  4. Keith February 20, 2009 at 10:33 pm #

    I have the mits wd 65735, how do i get into the service menu??

  5. Riyad Kalla February 21, 2009 at 8:29 am #

    Tom, don’t feel bad… I paid $4k and am in the same boat.

    Keith, I had to dig around AVS to find the codes that get you into the service menus (plural)… it’s totally hardcore and unintuitive, I wouldn’t recommend it.

  6. Keith February 21, 2009 at 1:37 pm #

    i have my lanp mode on standard, and 12 inches of clearence around my wd-65735, how long do u think the lamp will last?

  7. Keith February 21, 2009 at 1:38 pm #


  8. sandy February 21, 2009 at 1:43 pm #

    I like this tv

  9. Bob February 21, 2009 at 3:02 pm #

    The user manual for my 65835 implies an 8,000 hour life for the lamp. Keep in mind this is from the same people who said that the life of the lamp in the 65831 was 5,000 hours. I am already at 2,000+ hours, but my TV is on much more than most. It averages about 12 hours/day.

    Remember: This set uses a 180W arc-lamp. That technology converts, at best, only 25%-30% into usable light. The rest of that energy is expended as heat.

    MITS reduced the price of their lamp for this set to $99 last August. It is still available on their web site for that price.

  10. Mike Flasco February 23, 2009 at 1:08 pm #

    MITS reduced the price of their lamp for this set to $99 last August. It is still available on their web site for that price.

    Looks like Mits is back to $249 for the 180W bulb according to the link today.

  11. Bob February 23, 2009 at 1:21 pm #

    I apologize for the confusion. The $99 price is for the 65835 set, not the 65831 set.

  12. keith March 4, 2009 at 7:21 pm #

    Hey i have the mits wd 65735, a few days ago i took the lamp out just to see if i could do it, i noticed there was no dust inside where the lamp housing rest, the lamp housing it self has no filter at all just some cooling vents and a wire mesh.

  13. keith March 5, 2009 at 12:48 pm #

    I called mitsubishi to get some info on the lap that is in my wd-65735, (i am not having any problems) they said if i need another lamp , the new one come with the housing ect, so now its very easy to replace, i see having this tv for a looooong time.

  14. keith March 5, 2009 at 12:49 pm #


  15. keith March 6, 2009 at 5:20 pm #

    i have the mits. wd-65735 does it have the turbo light 180 and what is that anyway?

  16. Scott March 16, 2009 at 5:19 pm #


    With your exploding bulb/light engine contamination experiences…did your tech think there was any way possible to clean these rather than replace them??

    Surely there has to be a way to save them!…the reason I ask is I just had a bulb explode and am worried about the light engine/color wheel being contaminated…I received the bulb today and am going to install it here in a little bit…maybe I’ll get lucky and will not have the issues you had!

  17. Bob March 16, 2009 at 6:46 pm #

    I am certain it is impossible to clean the light engine in the field once it has become contaminated. The nature of super-heated mercury vapor makes it almost impossible to remove from the light tunnel and color wheel. Then there is the ‘heavy metal’ health issue. I had asked the tech your question after my first encounter. His response: “Swap it out with a rebuilt unit. They replace the entire light tunnel, color wheel and light engine at the parts depot.”

    If you are fortunate enough to ‘dodge the bullet’ this time, it is only a matter of time until this will come back and bite you… especially since it has happened to you once already. I hope I am wrong in your case…

  18. Dave R March 16, 2009 at 7:25 pm #

    Just to follow up. Best buy denied the replacement (lemon policy) and fixed the TV.

    Here is what they did.

    8702399 GEEK SQUAD 30 HT GEEK SQUAD I Complete $150.00 $0.00 $150.00
    8702745 GEEK SQUAD 60 HT GEEK SQUAD I Complete $140.00 $0.00 $140.00
    938P060010 PCB – LAMP PWR(V33/V33Y) USED $0.00 $178.99
    938P059020 OPTICAL-ENGINE 65″ (V33) USED $0.00 $1,757.49
    915P049010 LAMP (150w) (V33/V33Y/V3 USED $0.00 $285.49

    Total Price
    Amount Due $2,684.17
    Amount Paid $2,684.17

    So for almost $2700 they fixed a TV that they could have replaced for $1500! And they still have to cover it if it fails again!

    You would think someone there would have checked these numbers.

  19. Bob March 17, 2009 at 6:51 am #

    David R,
    I strongly urge you to get Best Buy’s denial of your “lemon policy” replacement IN WRITING – not verbally. If Best Buy is self-insuring your set, they may feel it is in their best interests to deny your claim. If the repair on the TV set is acceptable(for now), you may need to reference the exact repair work. (Some insurers specify “…the same failure for threee times in a row…” Be sure you keep all the paperwork on all your previous repairs. Should this happen again, I would get the name, address and phone # of the manager and fax your “replacement” claim along with a copy of your insurance contract on the set.

    Good Luck!

  20. Riyad Kalla March 17, 2009 at 7:30 am #

    Dave, what model is your set? If it’s the 831-835, that should have been a 180w bulb… I don’t remember if the 731/732 and lesser models used the 150w bulb or not…

  21. larry March 17, 2009 at 7:54 am #

    I have the 65-731 model and also one night i just heard a bang and the sure enough the light bulb had popped. Prior to the bang the heat sensor warning kept coming on and shutting the TV off automatically. Since then I have received a lamp under warranty (December 08) and had a technician fix the heat sensor (there was a recall or extension on the warranty for this part). I use the tv maybe 20 to 25 hours a week.
    I’ve also purchased an additional 2 years extended warranty through Mitsubishi. (My current manufacturers warranty will expire at the end of this Month)

  22. Bob March 17, 2009 at 9:54 am #

    The WD-65835 and WD-65735 use the same 180W lamp. It sells on the for $99.

  23. Matt March 28, 2009 at 4:51 pm #

    From what I can make from the article and other posts, it looks like I’m a victim of an Air Flow problem. I have the 65831 (2yrs old). I had to replace the lamp once and have suffered from the occasional turn off. However, currently, my set won’t turn on at all. The green Timer light is constantly blinking fast and no matter what I’ve tried, (unplugging, reset) I can’t get the set back on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  24. Bob March 28, 2009 at 8:33 pm #

    Your blinking light sounds like the lamp won’t ignite. The lamp could be defective. That was the same symptom I had with one of my several lamp replacements.

  25. Matt March 29, 2009 at 8:45 am #

    Thanks Bob, I’ll give it a try. In parallel, I’ll inquire about the service bulletin. Given the lamp is only 7 months old and at $250 a pop, I hope it’s not the norm. Thanks again.

  26. Riyad Kalla March 30, 2009 at 5:34 am #


    Besides what Bob mentioned, I’ve also noticed Mits uses that “Lamp” light for everything. The very first 831 I got killed itself when the color wheel spun itself to death and when I tried to turn the set on it just blinked “Lamp”.

    So it’s possible something else is busted as well. So if you do pickup another lamp to test it out, see if you can get a 10-day return policy just incase it’s not the lamp and you don’t have to eat $250.

  27. Saul Meshach April 2, 2009 at 6:54 pm #

    Here is a easier fix than removing the temp gauge.
    Very hard to remove since you cant see the screw.
    Locate the wire that goes to the back of the tempature gauge.
    Disconnect the female male plug. Cut both wires at the source.
    get a new wire about 7 inches. Splice the new wire to the temp gauge and the power source by passing the faulty connector. Put everthing back together and you should be fine.

  28. Matt April 6, 2009 at 7:34 pm #

    I tried replacing the lamp, but no luck, the green timer light still keeps blinking fast and the set won’t turn on. Had a service rep stop out and he said the DM Board needs to be replaced. Has anyone run into this problem? Does this sound right? Does Mits cover this repair? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

  29. Bob April 7, 2009 at 7:29 am #

    The DM board is the main digital board for the entire 831 set. It handles everything from Analog-Digital video & audio conversion to on-screen menus. Since your set is “2-years old”, I doubt MITS would cover it. If you have an insurance contract on the set, it would likely be covered. If not… I have not heard of a DM board going out, but I have not been in the service loop for the 831 since last August when I scrapped mine in favor of the 835 series.

  30. Jeremy April 12, 2009 at 9:44 am #

    Just tried the “file the connectors” fix and all is well. Thank you guys for this thread. I was getting very frustrated. Just bought a soldering iron to do the perm fix the next time it acts up. Again, many thanks.

  31. Paul April 24, 2009 at 7:11 am #

    My Mitsubishi WD-Y65 just shut down – there is no thermal air flow light blinking on the set. Does this mean that the light bulb died? I didn’t notice the picture slowly diming like it did the first time I replaced the bulb.

    The replacement bulb on is $249.00 – and thats just for the bulb (no housing). I remember it being a pain to replace the bulb the last time – taking that housing apart wasn’t a ten minute job for me. Any suggestions?

  32. Bob April 24, 2009 at 7:30 am #

    That could be the crowbar circuit in the lamp ballast triggering due to an overvoltage or overcurrent condition. Try unplugging the set from the wall and wait at least 30 seconds. Plug it back in and try to start the set again. If it works, something could be coming down the power line that trips the crowbar circuit. This is a safety feature that is not explained in the owner’s manual.

    The price you quoted seems to me to be for the older style lamps. I just looked it up on the web site. It is the 150W equivalent. Yes…they are PROUD of those lamps.

  33. Jeff May 11, 2009 at 4:13 pm #

    Thank you all for the information. I am experiencing the thermal sensor problem with ym WD-Y57. The service tech is supposed to call me back tomorrow and Mitsubishi will pay the bill. We’ll see what happens. Frustrating.

  34. Bryan May 14, 2009 at 11:43 am #

    I just contacted the local tv replair shop, I told them the story of the blocked air flow problem, they are aware of the problem. They told me that Mitsubishi is paying for the repair even if the warranty is out. They said that they are going to replace the thermo sensor all I have to do is give them a copy of the receipt and no money out of my pocket, I hope it’s as good as it sounds.

  35. GotBurn? May 18, 2009 at 7:48 am #

    Everyone here including me seem to have lamp issues and the fact is that Mitsubishi knows about it…Well I called them at 800-332-2119 opt:5 make sure you let them know that this is a defect problem or they will just get your credit card and hit you up! You will need you model#, serial#, and a receipt. They will give you a case number and will ship your bulb free of charge when you fax them your receipt. if all else fails you can get a bulb on ebay for about 100 bucks…GOOD LUCK!

  36. Art G May 28, 2009 at 9:10 am #

    Our Mits 52631 TV has been giving the “shutting down” message for months and has been getting worse and worse. Finally today it just quit working altogether because of this issue. Following the advice on this blog, I removed the bulb, opened the back, removed the fan housing, and removed the thermistor. I then removed the wires from the quick-connect connector that the factory used to connect the thermistor. I noted that if you connected the wires directly, the “grab” between the wires was pretty weak (an unreliable connection). Following the advice on this thread, I soldered the wire ends together (making sure to not switch the wires, although I don’t know whether switching the wires would be a problem). Shrink tubing now provides the new insulation. After putting it all back together and putting the TV back in place, all is well. SUCCESS! No more error messages or frustrations with the TV (which other than this issue is a fabulous TV). Thanks to all who tracked this down!

    Art G

  37. Riyad Kalla May 28, 2009 at 10:33 am #

    Art that’s awesome news! For me, that’s the biggest payout for contributing to open discussions like this one (knowing it’s helped people solve hair-tearing problems)

    Happy HDTV’ing!

  38. Don Mc June 18, 2009 at 4:59 pm #

    Wow – this is a great thread. I have read MANY posts on this issue as we have a WD-52631 which has the same problem (false over-heating message followed by shutdown). When I saw that several of the excellent posters had cut away the thermo connector and soldered the wires directly, I thought that it was worth a try because we are extremely frustrated with this TV, having gone through this issue many times before (the TV is about a year an a half old).

    We started getting the messages again (even after I had cleaned out inside, including both fans, and put a fan flush up against the rear air vent LOL) – and this morning it would not come on stable after many, many tries – even unplugged it for an hour to no avail.

    I haven’t searched for these threads for some months now, so I thought that another search was in order, and I was fortunate enough to find this site !! I just finished up the fix (removing the thermo connector and soldering the wires directly) and put things back together (I removed the air channel shroud as some suggested, which did make it much easier to get the little thermo mount screw out) – and voila – the TV started up and has been running for a while now with no shutdown message or shutdown – this is very encouraging because it would not stay on for more than a few seconds every time that I tried it today, prior to applying your fix. This fix also enabled me to use my new Weller digital soldering iron LOL.

    Thank you so much for helping us get our TV back – we really like the TV because it has a very good picture – but only when you can get it to stay on LOL.

    Thanks again :-)

    • Riyad Kalla June 30, 2009 at 8:44 am #

      Don that’s fantastic news, glad everything worked out without needing to call a repair crew out there and pay a service fee.

  39. Don Mc June 18, 2009 at 9:04 pm #

    To be completely honest about my implementation of the fix, the wires were so short on either side of the connector, that after removing the connector is was not possible to put the sensor back in it’s housing.

    I left the sensor hanging in a fold of the plastic airflow shroud instead. I realize that this change will effect the sensor’s ability to report legitimate high temperature problems – and I did not think about getting the data sheet on the part while I had it removed from the TV (big mistake – data sheets are available online now-a-days) so I think that I’ll have to open it up again to get the part number, get the data sheet, and then know exactly what I am dealing with due to the shortcut that I took due to the short wire length.

    Normally (like if this happened to me at work, (I’m a firmware engineer) I would have automatically checked the data sheet, but I have never had to do this sort of thing with consumer electronics before, so I was a bit flustered with having to do anything to a complicated modern TV. A cooler mind than mine would have done the right thing and checked out the bottom line details on the part. I’m feeling a little stupid now….. LOL (i.e. after having put back 28 screws).

    Anyhow, it has been up and running for about 4 hours now without any problem, so I must thank you again for your help with this issue. If I discover anything interesting after reading the data sheet on the thermo part, I will post again – and if it continues to work I will post again (obviously, if it fails I will also post again).

    However, if the fire department finds our dead bodies here, then regrettably, I will not be able to send another post.

    Since day-one with this problem, I just wanted to rip out the damned sensor and rewire accordingly (rather than leaving it in, as your fix tells us how to do). However, after reading about some of the legitimate over-heating problems that can occur (including explosions LOL), maybe that is not a good idea. They put the sensor in for a good reason – but they screwed up their manufacturing implementation pretty good – otherwise we would not be here.

    Thanks goes to you folks for making this fix possible – we are lucky to have found this site.


    Cheers :-)

  40. Bob June 19, 2009 at 4:29 am #

    Don Mc,
    In my opinion, Mits released the xx831 series before it had been thoroughly tested. Many manufacturers do that these days because it costs less to replace damaged parts rather than shut down the production line and retool. (That will teach us to buy the latest & greatest ending in model # …1 The differences between the 831 and 835 series are dramatic. When the “three strikes lemon rule” was implemented and my 831 was replaced last August with an 835, it was like the difference between day and night. I have yet to see anything wrong with the 835. But…Mits had all of us ‘beta testers’ to point them in the right direction.

  41. Don Mc June 19, 2009 at 1:54 pm #


    I’ll bet that you are right about that – they let the consumers be the beta testers. Sheesh !!!

  42. Tripp June 30, 2009 at 9:00 pm #

    I have WD77531 Mits 57 inch that I baught in 01-07. Replace one bulb 2-09 always has false starting and I have to restart over and over to get it to stay on. Then today I got the “check for air block and will go off in 45 seconds” to that effect. I read up on your blog here and I wiggled the “white rectagle” after 3 hours of cleaning and nothing happening and NOW it is working again. I will take the time and sodder the connections later. Good night! Thanks for the info!

  43. Mike Flasco July 1, 2009 at 7:36 am #

    What happened to posts between June 19 and June 30?
    RE: My last post about white spots on screen of 57831….
    Bad light engine per service guy. Cost me $117 to find that out.
    OEM light engine in this set is Part #P938P059030. Anyone know if the engine has been updated/improved in the XX835 series? If so, has the part # changed? Mits says they will pay for light engine ($420) but I don’t want to replace current part specs/problems with same specs/problems if it has been updated. I suspect it has been updated but Mits guy is telling me he is not aware of an updated to the part and that, if it has been updated, it would carry the same Part# — neither of these comments sound right to me. Also — I’m thinking there must be a way to go into service menus and see total run-time in hours for the set. It would be a help to have this info to know how many hours are on the lamp and, in my case, the light engine. Anyone have an idea on whether this info is inside and where to find it?

  44. Bob July 1, 2009 at 8:46 am #

    There is no ‘runtime’ memory within the V34 chassis’ service manual. With all the other adjustments, you would think this might be something that a service person would care to access and/or reset. …perhaps in a later rendition?

    From my limited comparisons of the 831 and 835 chassis, a slightly different design was used on the 835’s light engine. The light tunnel and air cooling chambers were different – likely to improve the cooling capacity.

    When I had to replace the light engines on my 831, they were shipping exclusively ‘rebuilt’ units from a plant in Georgia. At that time, they were operating that plant 24/7. At one point, there was a two week backlog. So…MITS had to know that they had a pretty major problem on their hands.

  45. Mike Flasco July 2, 2009 at 8:58 am #

    Thanks, Bob. Looks like Riyad has the dope on the service menu run-time thing. Riyad, where did you go in the menu to get the lamp hours?
    My 57831 picture is completely washed out too. Also has dead pixels, bleading sidebars, and the left side is darker than the right. Mits is paying for the new light engine…I get to pay labor. Bob, about when did you replace your engine? Mits has updated the engine for the XX835 and I am told by my service guys that they will order the updated engine to put in this set — we’ll see. After 21 years as a Mits fan and 4 tv’s, 2 vcr’s, and a dvd player later, I am about done with Mits. To date, the onwership cost of this 57831 has been $139 per month, not including the extra $300 in electric bill for driving this mini room-heater for the last 27 months. Got a 50″ Pioneer Kuro through a Sam’s Club auction. It’s still in the box. If the Mits works well with the new engine, it will go to the basement for DVD’s only. Riyad, how about that menu access for the lamp-hours? Thanks guys.

  46. Riyad Kalla July 2, 2009 at 11:26 am #


    Be *super* careful if you get into the service menu and start playing around — the instructions are as follows:

    To enter the service menu, press the following keys in sequence on the remote: MENU 2 4 5 7

    To see the video test patterns: fast forward, rewind

    To scroll through the options, press the VIDEO key.

    To change the values, press the UP or DOWN buttons.

    To save a change, press the ENTER button.

    To exit without saving, just press the EXIT button.

    IIRC the bulb life info is at the bottom of that first screen, I think you can scroll down there and just select it.

  47. Bob July 2, 2009 at 3:11 pm #

    The first time I replaced the light engine(under MITS warranty), was about 8 months after I got the XX831. This was due to contamination from an exploding lamp (more like a loud pop – then black) The second time the light engine was replaced (under extended warranty) was about seven months later (summer ’08) when a lamp melted, sagged and developed micro-cracks in the glass. This also contaminated the light tunnel which gave an awful halo around anything in the picture with a bright content. When I called in a subsequent occurrence of the halo effect after replacing the lamp, the warranty company agreed “…this is a lemon.” Hence, the xx835 as of last August. So far – knock on wood – not a single problem.

  48. Mike Flasco July 2, 2009 at 4:14 pm #

    Bob, your exploding and melting lamps makes me worry about the “fix” for the false “air flow” issue. I don’t know if there is backup over-heat protection and warning after taking out the faulty sensor and hardwiring. I’m glad the lemon law was there for you. I’m hoping for the same light engine they are putting in the XX835.

  49. Bob July 2, 2009 at 8:10 pm #

    There are additional overheat sensors in both the ballast and the air exit path. In my opinion, the heat transfer to the sensor behind the light cage was never the issue. It was a simple case of the wrong type of connector crimp (for solid wire) being used on the stranded wire from that sensor. The connection was doomed to fail because someone failed to look at the specs for the connector. With the high heat and subsequent expansion and contraction of the crimp, it was not a question of IF it would fail. It was a question of WHEN.

    The issue of overheating lamps, again in my opinion, was also an issue of ‘not reading the specs’ for the lamp. It requires a minimum air flow of XX cfm (cubic feet per minute) at sea level through the lamp which was NOT being delivered by the cooling fans. This was aggravated by an air filter cover on the lamp module which would clog in a mildly dusty environment. While the actual cfm through the lamp was about half what it should have been, the engineers further failed to take into account ‘derating’ needed to handle the xx831’s altitude above sea level. At 5000′ ASL, the airflow needs to be increased almost 20% to match thermal transfer characteristics of air at sea level. The fan design along with the air intake and exit channels in the xx831 restricted air flow to the lamp in order to get a fairly quiet fan operation. The calculated cooling airflow in the XX835 is more than double that in the xx831. (Yet they both use a 180 watt arc lamp) The cooling air channels are totally separate for the lamp and the ballast in the XX835. Both lamp and ballast air feeds are mixed, however, at the air exit port in the XX835.

  50. Mike Flasco July 3, 2009 at 8:35 am #

    Bob — Great reference information worth saving to my Mits archive. Thank you for taking the time. Your reply leads me to one more question: Would you have any concerns about replacing a faulty, OEM light engine in a xx831 with the updated engine being used in the xx835? Will the updated version operate efficiently in a xx831 given the relatively restricted cooling ability compared to the xx835 design?
    In short, should I replace a faulty OEM xx831 with an equivilant rebuilt unit or update to the newer version?

  51. Bob July 3, 2009 at 1:12 pm #

    From my recollection of the XX831 last August, I am not sure that a light engine from the XX835 would be interchangeable with the original in the XX831. Offhand, I would doubt they are interchangeable. Only a tech who works with these MITS regularly would hazard a guess. While your light engine symptoms indicate is is unquestionably damaged, the XX835 light engine may not fit on the XX831 frame. When they redesigned the XX835, MITS did a huge amount of rework on the entire projection system, including the light engine, lamp and cooling system. It is truly unfortunate that so many of us had to be ‘guinea pigs’ in the meantime. I felt that MITS would have been smarter…

    While technical info is limited, I won’t even go view the newest MITS box – LaserVue – Besides, its $7K price tag is a bit out of my neighborhood.

  52. Riyad Kalla July 5, 2009 at 4:44 pm #

    Interesting aside, it looks like Mits is up to the 837-series of TVs now (Costco link) — anyone seen the inside of one of these to know if they’ve revised the light engine/cooling at all?

  53. Riyad Kalla July 13, 2009 at 1:01 pm #


    I noticed during some darker movies (like Batman or Underworld) and some darker moments in games (Xbox 360 or PS3) that the dark detail on my WD-65831 is really bad… I just can’t get the constant high enough in order to not only see detail in darker scenes but just see *anything*.

    For about the last year whenever I play a game, the first thing I do is go into the Options menu and blow the “Brightness” or “Gamma” all the way to the top.

    I noticed just recently (last month?) that doing that, I am getting to the point where I still can’t see some things.

    I have about 3.5k hours on my first bulb (ever) and realize that likely has a lot to do with it, but grinding through’s differences from the 831, to 833, to 835 and now to the 837 series I noticed that the Dark Detailer and other picture-enhancement technologies on the sets actually saw multiple upgrades through those series.

    I’m curious if you noticed (specifically) any improvement in dark-scene handling on the 835 when you went to it than you saw on your 831?

    That would make me much more interested in a 837 at Costco as a replacement.

    Odd Sidenote: The 65″ is now the smallest 837 Costco carriers, but disturbingly enough, their 73″ and 82″ all share the same damn 180 watt bulb… given my existing phobia of dark-picture performance, I couldn’t imagine picking up a 82″ screen that was driven by the same bulb output that my 65 is… anyway, just an observation for anyone that enjoys talking Mitsu-DLP-tech 😉

  54. Bob July 13, 2009 at 1:36 pm #

    I noticed that the “Dark Detailer” on the 831 seemed to have that function reversed. By that, I mean that turning ON the Dark Detailer seemed to lose contrast enhancement rather than providing contrast enhancement. I switched it off to enhance dark detail on the 831. Turning ON the Dark Detailer in the 835 improves that detail. So…Yes, I believe there were some software glitches in the first implementation of Dark Detailer. I am not too surprised that you would begin to lose some dark detail after 3500+ hrs on the lamp. I strongly urge you to get a replacement ASAP as this is one of the first symptoms that the lamp could be approaching the end of its useful life. There will come a time in the near future where the lamp fill fail to light and you’ll be up the proverbial creek.

  55. Bob July 13, 2009 at 1:45 pm #

    The 180W lamp is typically throttled way back on the 65″ sets. The DLP chip is reflecting only 40-45% of the light energy for a full-white object on a 65″ set. The 73″ and 82″ sets simply program the DLP chip to reflect more of the available light. The avg screen lumens can be set to be identical across the range of screen sizes. You simply have to adjust the brightness and contrast settings to compensate for the larger screen.

  56. Riyad Kalla July 13, 2009 at 1:52 pm #


    As always your insightful replies are much appreciated. I’ll get ontop of a replacement lamp ASAP.

    As for the 40-45% you gave with the chip reflection, do you have any reference materials I can dig through to get more detail on this? I was perfectly fine not getting an 82″ TV until you said that… :(

  57. Bob July 13, 2009 at 6:30 pm #

    The “40%-45%” figure came out of a discussion with an engineering tech who was sent to my place to take some measurements on the old 831 after its second episode. (That seemed unusual for MITS at the time) He indicated that most of the light energy is dissipated and can actually drive the temperature of the DLP chip quite high. Fortunately, the thermal limits on the DLP chips have been steadily raised so this is no longer a major problem. But…if a pixel suddenly goes black or full-bright, it is likely to to thermal failure of that pixel on the chip.

    The tech indicated there is a setting within the Service Menu that allows for setting parameters for a 65″ and 73″ set. This automatically adjusts the brightness, contrast and color settings to match the size of the screen. I never wanted to ‘experiment’ with that, so I am not familiar with them. The Service Menu on the 835 is basically the same as the 831 (MENU 2 4 5 7), but, unless the bulb is the original one that came with the set, the numbers at the bottom of the Service Menu signify the set’s ON time – not necessarily the bulb’s ON time. I am currently showing 3785 hours on my 835 and still going strong with a clean, crisp picture. Perhaps MITS’ projected 8000 hours on the bulb for the 835 set might actually come to pass.

  58. joikd July 17, 2009 at 5:16 pm #

    After much searching with no answers, I’ve ended up here. Hopefully, someone will know the answer to these two questions:

    1. Can the light engine be moved up towards the mirror to reduce overscan (like moving a flashlight towards a wall–image gets smaller)?

    2. Is there some kind of lens or something that can be adjusted to change focus?

  59. Bob July 17, 2009 at 7:00 pm #

    According to the Engineering Tech, there is no adjustment for focus, per se. The “Focus Lens” is an integral part of the light engine and does not have any adjustments. If your image is out of focus, the light engine probably needs replacing. The light engine nor its lens assemblies cannot be cleaned in the field.

    The service manual does not show any field adjustments for ‘overscan’. But, you can invoke a test pattern to show you the current level of overscan. The test pattern can be invoked on the remote control (MENU 2-4-5-7 followed by FF/FWD multiple times) This pattern shows colored borders with:

    Red = 4% overscan
    White = 5% overscan
    Green = 6% overscan
    Cyan = 7% overscan
    Yellow = 10% overscan

    Press EXIT to close test pattern

    If, for example, your outer-most visible border shows CYAN, you are overscanning at 7%. On my set, the outer-most visible border is white (5% overscan).


  60. joikd July 18, 2009 at 7:53 am #

    Bob, thank you very much.

    So, with the light engine “lens” being fixed and unadjustable, that would mean there is a single point of distance that gives optimal focus. This distance, though, causes a certain amount of overscan. Correct?

    I know that many of the older Mits. CRT displays (mine included) arrived out of the box with less than optimal focus. Many guys (including me) actually opened up the back, and adjusted the focus on all three guns with noticeable improvement. So, my next question is: are these DLP’s arriving with optimal focus out of the box? Maybe there is room for improvement by moving the light engine (I read that it is secured by just a few screws, and that there is room to slide it back and forth)?

  61. Bob July 18, 2009 at 10:00 am #

    You are essentially correct. But, with no field adjustment for focus or overscan, you are just about ‘stuck’ with what MITS ships to you. I presume you have the 65″ model which has its light engine mounting substantially different from the 73″ version.

    There are, indeed, only two mounting screws which hold down the light engine to the chassis. But those screws also confine the limits for the mechanical keystone adjustment as well as the rotation adjustment. Any attempt to alter the light engine spacing would likely also alter the amount of light impinging on the DLP chip and the brightness of your screen. There are so many potential “gotchas” that I urge you to reconsider leaving the light engine where it is.

    Just as an aside… If you are having a severe overscan issue, are you sure the TV’s FORMAT setting is correct for your source material? Just a thought…

    Also… Most 480i and 480p sources will appear slightly out of focus due to the upconversion process. This is because there are no high-frequency components, so the images will not be as ‘crisp’ as those we get used to seeing in HD. My first reaction was “..there is something wrong here.” The upconversion process digitally interpolates the ‘missing lines’ between the 480x source and the 1024p display screen. This will still be the case even if you are using a full-bandwidth HDMI cable. A 65″ screen tends to amplify the lack of bandwidth in a 480x source. Does the video seem out of focus even with a 1080i over-the-air signal?

  62. Mike Flasco July 18, 2009 at 10:13 am #

    RE: My 7-1-09 post about white spots on screen of 57831. Picture washed out and left side darker…. Bad light engine per service guy. Cost me $117 to find that out.

    7-18-09 After three phone calls to Mits and one from Mits to my service guy, Mits paid the parts for rebuilt light engine and new lamp.
    I paid total $284 R&R. I give Mits an ‘A’ for this accomodation on a 27-month old 57831. Took the tech 30 minutes to do the job in my living room. Engine slides in and out with only a few screws. I’m told many techs will take the set into their shop for this work. I would really try to avoid their moving the set to their shop. Seems their concern is mainly about cleanliness of the work environment. I suggest that anyone looking at engine replacement do a little cleaning and dust around the set for better odds on in-house fix.

  63. Riyad Kalla July 18, 2009 at 11:02 am #


    Excellent followup, thanks for taking the time to let us know what happened. I’m *very* happy to hear that Mits customer service came through there… obviously you had to spend some money for the out-of-warranty set, but sounded very affordible to get the setup up and running again as opposed to heading out and shopping for a new one.

  64. Derek Wade July 25, 2009 at 4:32 pm #

    Another followup on the “air flow” error message for a WD-65831. I was able to fix this problem as well, easily and with no cost. On this model, as described in a previous post, the thermocouple sits on the back side of the lamp cage. You will need to remove the lamp cover and the back of the TV to access the wiring. Without going through the effort of unscrewing the thermocouple, find the 2 black wires that run from the thermocouple to the image engine. On my model there is a clip/plug that can be separated/disconnected from the thermocouple. Unplug the wires and on the female side of the clip, put a small shunt, made of a bent paperclip, into the connections and tape. this in effect shorts the connection w/o any difficult work. It appears to have fixed my issue. I hope it fixes it for you as well. If your unit is still under warranty, I suggest you have it properly repaired. If it is out of warranty, this is a quick and easy solution.

  65. Bob July 25, 2009 at 4:45 pm #

    Your solution is, indeed, a quick fix. But, if you plan to leave that fix in the set, it effectively takes the thermal sensor out of the protection loop. Should an air path become blocked over time, major thermal damage could be done which might force you to scrap the set. Since you have already isolated the probable cause, I still recommend that you hard solder the sensor to the wiring. This is the solution that MITs has adopted in their field service bulletins. The repair shop technicians took about 45 minutes to cut out the connector and splice the wires.

    • Anonymous March 31, 2010 at 2:30 pm #

      Bob – We have replaced our lamp 2 x in the last month and have noticed that the tv is getting extremly hot, is this the thermal sensor that needs to be serviced on? I’m in fear that we will have to replace it again. This is the first time we have had any problems with this W65831.

  66. joikd August 11, 2009 at 5:03 pm #

    Thanks, again, for your answers, Bob. I don’t have overscan issues (2.5%), but was just hoping to improve.

    One issue that I’m having that nobody seems to be talking about is that the two “ISF modes”, ADV1 & ADV2, do not have enough light output. With contrast maxed at 63, and the bulb mode in “bright” instead of “standard”, I only get 29-30 ftL. With Natural, Bright, and Brilliant, I can get from 44 to 66 ftL. Any ideas?

  67. Bob August 11, 2009 at 7:24 pm #

    That sounds unusual. What is your video input source? Does it have an adjustable output level?

  68. joikd August 11, 2009 at 8:28 pm #

    Well, I suppose I could use my HTPC instead of the blu-ray player (no adjustments) to crank up contrast. But, I’ve always been under the impression that you’re not supposed to let an HTPC mess with anything. So, I may be screwed there. I was thinking that Mits. needs to release a firmware update to fix the problem. The other modes prove that the display is capable of putting out higher ftL, so if they just change the parameters of the ADV1 & ADV2 modes, it should work. Does that sound possible?

    By the way, when I said “nobody seems to be talking about”, I meant everywhere–not just here.

    Also, blue is way, way, way undersaturated. No amount of cranking color, PerfectColor, or ADV mode blue does anything except crank Y (well, maybe it raises blue a hair). The other colors are okay, though. I read that last year’s models had the same issue with blue.

  69. Bob August 12, 2009 at 6:43 am #

    What exactly are you referring to with your “ADV” inputs? The 65831 service manual makes no reference to ADV inputs. In addition to the HDMI inputs, the service manual states:

    VIDEO IN JACK (RCA Type)1.0Vp-p 75? unbalanced
    AUDIO IN JACK (RCA Type)-4.7dBm 43k? unbalanced
    S-VIDEO IN JACK (Y/C separate type)Y:1.0 Vp-p C:0.286Vp-p(BURST)75? unbalanced
    COMP / Y, Cr, Cb (RCA Type)Y: 1.0 Vp-p Cr, Cb: 700mVp-p

  70. joikd August 12, 2009 at 2:02 pm #

    Whoops! Sorry, guys. I thought we were talking about the 65835.

  71. Doug September 5, 2009 at 7:58 am #

    Hello all, this is a great forum to find out what happened to my WD57831. Like many on here I started getting an AirFlow blocked message. I used compressed air yesterday to blow out the vents, and it worked. At least until I turned it on this morning. I’m getting the same message, so I took off the back panel to clean out the tv. Same message comes up. I called a repair man, and he is aware of the problem and is scheduled to come out. I thought about fixin it myself, but decided I’ll wait for him. He stated that he wasn’t going to solder the connector, so if this happens again, I’ll call someone else or fix it myself. Thank you to all who posted in this forum for giving me direction on my problem. Although it would have been nice to have an excuse to buy an LED tv if mine required lots of money to fix. I’ll post an update when I get it fixed. :-)

  72. Bob September 5, 2009 at 9:05 am #

    The connectors that MITS used in the heat sensor path were not the correct connectors. The connector swaging mechanism is designed for solid-core wire. MITS used stranded wire. That essentially guarantees a high failure rate – particularly in a high thermal cycling environment. Knowing what I have found out about this connector, I would insist it be removed and the wires soldered together.

  73. Doug September 5, 2009 at 10:39 am #

    Thanks Bob! I think I’ll wait to see if the repair guy solders the wires. If not, then I will pick up a soldering gun and do it myself.

  74. Bob September 5, 2009 at 10:47 am #

    You might mention to the repair guy that MITS has a service order published that instructs their authorized service personnel to solder the wires. (Presumably because of the wrong type of clips in the connector)

  75. Doug September 5, 2009 at 10:57 am #

    I will do that. And if he insists on not soldering, I’ll call another repair service. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it! If I had any clue on how to solder, I would do it myself. Maybe its time to go to youtube. :-)

  76. Doug September 5, 2009 at 12:04 pm #

    Update. The repair guy just left. Took him all of 15 minutes to replace the sensor. I told him about the bulletin from Mitsu, and he said that he used to repair the sensor like that(soldering the wires). He said they figured out it wasn’t a conection problem, but that the sensor would trip the error message because it wasn’t rated very well. He said the updated sensor will not trip the error message. So if it’s true or not, I’m fixed!!! Back up and running!!! Thanks again to all on this site, if it weren’t for you all I wouldn’t have called a repair man in the first place!

  77. Rob October 16, 2009 at 4:24 pm #

    Thank you so much for posting this information! I don’t have a Mitsubishi TV, but I do have a BenQ MP512 projector, and it was shutting itself off. I opened it up and started looking around, tried fixing a few connections, but nothing seemed to help. The fans ran okay, so I couldn’t see why the projector was turning itself off. It wasn’t until I dug a little deeper and found the sensor that I found the source of the trouble. When I googled klixon YS11A95B, it led me to this blog. And sure enough, after removing the crimped connector and soldering the sensor wires directly to the PCB, the projector works perfectly!

  78. Bob October 16, 2009 at 5:58 pm #

    It is a fairly common mistake made by many engineers. They fail to read the note “NOT FOR STRANDED WIRE” in the crimp connector data sheets. Unless specifically designed to penetrate the insulation of stranded wire, most crimp connectors will have poor reliability and will likely fail with thermal cycling. Many crimp connectors for stranded wiring specifically require stripping the insulation and tinning the wires. They also may include a built-in strain relief shroud to minimize flexing at the crimp. It seems a bit excessive for such a small part, but those of us who experienced the failures would not call this excessive.

  79. shell October 16, 2009 at 8:05 pm #

    I am having similar problems with the VS-77707 MITs. Do you think he thermal sensor could be the problem with it shutting itself off?

  80. shell October 16, 2009 at 8:06 pm #

    oops I mean the VS-55707 not 77707( must have had James Bond on my mind)

  81. jim October 16, 2009 at 11:00 pm #

    i have a mitsubishi 62 inch wd62327 it runs fine for 3 hours or so then just shuts off the red status light comes on before it shuts off the fan sounds like its slowing down if i unplug it for for a while then turn it on it runs for a few hours then does the same thing please help

  82. Marlin October 31, 2009 at 1:37 pm #

    SO I bought a new lamp…my 3rd in like 2 years for my WD-Y65. I have had the lamp for like 3 months, and now my Lamp light is on. My TV will turn on for like 10 minutes at a time then picture goes out and my lamp light turns on again. I do not get the airflow issue message that I have gotten before. After waiting like an hour i can do it again. Which i can watch for like 10 more minutes. I don’t know what the issue is does anyone have any ideas or ways to fix? I wish that I had never bought this TV it has been more trouble than it has been worth.

  83. Doug November 6, 2009 at 4:52 pm #

    I had a question about bulb hours for my mitsubishi dlp WD57831 and I figured this was the place to come for answers. Will watching my DLP at the Bright or Brilliant setting make the bulb burn out quicker as opposed to the natural setting? The first bulb I had burned out in 4 months and I figured it was because the factory setting was on brilliant and I didn’t change it. Could someone give me a definate answer. Thank you!!

  84. Bob November 6, 2009 at 9:19 pm #

    All of the brightness & contrast settings (including Brilliant, Bright & Natural) are adjusted in the DLP chip settings – not the lamp. The lamp is normally operated at its standard setting. There is a service setting to increase the lamp output by about 5%, but the effect is to shorten the lamp life since that increases the lamp’s operating temperature. To answer your question: No – placing the system in Brilliant or Bright mode will not decrease the life of your lamp.

  85. Riyad Kalla November 7, 2009 at 6:27 am #


    To addon to what Bob said (he’s the goto-guy around here) I’d also add that a 4-month lamp life in ANY configuration is too short.

    Assuming you are a normal watcher of TV (not 10 hrs a day) 2 years would be short and 5 would be long… I’m most of the way through my 3rd year right now with my original WD-65831 on it’s original bulb and so far so good.

  86. Doug November 7, 2009 at 10:59 am #

    Thanks guys for the answers. I watch a ton of tv, play xbox 360, and watch blurays. So I’m putting alot of stress on my lamps. :) But the longest I have gotten out of a bulb was a year and 4 months which given how much I watch tv, I was fine with that. Thanks again for the answers and thanks for keeping the forum going!!

  87. Bob November 7, 2009 at 8:41 pm #

    I just checked the runtime for the 65835 lamp – 5378 hours since August of 2008. (We DO watch a lot of TV) Seems like MITS has finally done something right.

    • Riyad Kalla November 19, 2009 at 5:49 pm #

      This might seem awfully amateur, but how do you check the lamp time? I’ve gotten into the service menu and done a particular key stroke set that I thought would bring it up, but it showed me 2547 3 months ago and I tried again recently and it was still 25xx-something, which just seemed way too low for a 3 year old TV.

  88. Laverne November 10, 2009 at 6:43 am #

    I have a WD-65732 (I bought it is in 11-2006) that the sensor was replaced in April 2007.How do you go about showing the extended warrany that i read about here, I have looked on the mitsubishi website site but see nothing cocerning the extended warranty for sensor,thanks

  89. Bob November 10, 2009 at 9:45 am #

    Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America (MDEA) has extended the warranty on the heat sensor related repairs by an additional two years. Please contact them at for specifics to your TV model. If you are currently having problems, I would get in touch with them ASAP as it appears your purchase date may be approaching the end of the two-year warranty extension. You can also visit the SUPPORT web page at: Click on SERVICE & fill in your address to locate an authorized MITS service rep. They will be familiar with the terms of the warranty extension.

  90. Bob November 19, 2009 at 9:12 pm #

    To view the TOTAL TIME for the set, press MENU on the TV’s controller. Once the menu appears, enter 2470. The total time in use will be at the bottom of the listing. Press EXIT to return to your program.

    I do not believe the TOTAL TIME resets once a lamp is replaced, so it seems appropriate to notate the TOTAL TIME displayed whenever you replace a lamp. You will likely have to subtract that baseline number of hours from the set’s total time.

  91. Riley January 1, 2010 at 11:10 am #

    Had the “air flow” issue on my 5 year old WD-65732 mentioned numerous times in this string. I followed the methods outined to reseat the klixon thermal overload connector with success. I would say it took me about 3 hours over a couple of days to get er done…my 59 year old eyes and hands take a bit longer. In the event it happens again I’ll hardwire a replacement thermal protector. Any suggestions on finding the Klixon YS11A95B-C6 or equal. I can’t find the specs on the device other than 250v/7A. would like to have the open temp specs.

    • Chris February 8, 2011 at 6:07 pm #

      Where exactly is this Klixon thermal overload connector located in the TV and where is this outlined method to reseat the connector explained? Your help is appreciated.

      • Bob February 9, 2011 at 3:45 am #

        The initial reference to the Klixon YS11A95B sensor was made by Rob on October 16, 2009 at 4:24 pm. My search of the Mits service manuals for the TV did not locate any entry for either “Klixon” or “YS11A95B.” Rob’s blog referred to a BenQ MP512 projector, not a Mits TV.

  92. Glinda Frazzano May 20, 2010 at 5:23 pm #

    Major thanks for the article. Much obliged.

  93. bryant July 19, 2010 at 7:36 pm #

    im having the air flow problem. how is your tv working now? was just the sensor after all?

    • Riyad Kalla July 19, 2010 at 9:06 pm #

      bryant, how old is your set? Do you have any pets?

      If you have had the TV a sufficient period of time and you have pets, it might actually be an airflow issue and cleaning the vent or lamp filter may do the trick.

      If the TV is relatively new though, then yes, it’s probably a faulty sensor and a quick call to Mitsubishi should get a tech out to your house to replace it under warranty.

      Out of curiosity, which model do you have?

  94. T. GONZALEZ August 1, 2010 at 11:29 am #

    my 4 year old WD-65732 has been acting up. ive replaced the lamp 5 times all together. tv says airflow problem (light indicator ). id buy lamp only (no housing $100) but keep having problem of shutting off still! Beautiful pic but crappy TV! IMITSUBISHI STINKS!!!!!

    • Riyad Kalla August 2, 2010 at 1:14 pm #

      T, you have bought 5 lamps ($250 each) in 4 years? Man, something is going on if they are burning out that much… unless you ahve the thing on non-stop, all day. I can’t figure out how you would burn through them so fast.

  95. Mari August 19, 2010 at 5:45 pm #

    We have a wd 65735 dlp hd tv (mitsu). Tonight, the tv has a mind of its own…No picture when we turn it on, full sound and green light. We hear the ramp up and then the tv shuts itself off and the red lamp light comes on. We are at wits ends! I have not seen anything re: no picture…is it the lamp or something else?

    • Riyad Kalla August 19, 2010 at 10:46 pm #


      If you have had the TV for a while it could legitimately be the bulb. You can try pulling the bulb (the access panel is on the back, on the left) and seeing if it shows any obvious signs of being “burnt out”.

      If I were you I guess the first thing I would try is the easiest, and just get a replacement bulb. You can go to and at the bottom of the screen, in the footer, there is a “Replacement Lamps” link — it’s pretty easy to order a replacement.

      I think the x35 series (yours) uses the newer light engine, so your bulb should be $99 or so.

      NOTE: This doesn’t sound like the “Air flow” issue originally reported in this thread, which is where the TV will display a message about “Air flow” and then shut itself off. If your red “LAMP” light is actually on, it might just be burned out.

      Keep us posted!

  96. Joe September 27, 2010 at 10:06 pm #

    I have the same issue, i have replaced almost everything in the 65831 and mu bulb doesn’t work after 3 months. The bulb is from Mitsubishi.

  97. Bob November 20, 2010 at 11:45 am #

    Just a quick note to state MITS occasionally DOES do something right. My WD65835 set shows 10,000 hours on the original lamp. The set was purchased 08/20/2008.

    • Riyad Kalla December 1, 2010 at 9:44 pm #

      Bob that is amazing. I finally replaced my first one around 5k hours (831 series, so old-style lamps and old style light engine).

  98. Bob December 2, 2010 at 4:54 am #

    Just when it seems that everything is well… My WD65835 has begun to show an intermittent problem with turning on from the remote. It can be turned on consistently from the manual ON button, but not from any of the three remotes. The service tech has ordered a new main board. Am thankful for extended warranties…

    • Riyad Kalla December 3, 2010 at 8:20 am #

      Bob, that’s an odd issue — let us know if the new mainboard fixes it.

      • Bob December 17, 2010 at 5:52 pm #

        New main board fixed the wayward remote problem.The tech even transferred all my personal settings to the new board.

        • Riyad Kalla December 21, 2010 at 10:18 am #

          Bob, glad to hear it (and thanks for that detailed reply to Dr. John. Wish I had seen that before I typed up my comparably useless reply 😉

  99. Dr. John December 17, 2010 at 2:22 pm #

    I have a 3 year old Mitsubishi WD73734 set. In the last several months the TV will just shut down (no picture, no sound), with green and yellow lights flashing. This problem occurs very erratically. The problem may occur within 2 minutes of turning the set on or the problem may not happen for months at a time. After the TV turns itself off, I can wait a few minutes, turn it on an it will run fine for days or weeks.
    When the problem does occur, I have been able to identify the “error code” as #38. Any ideas on what is wrong with my TV? Could it be an airflow issue?

    • Bob December 17, 2010 at 5:50 pm #

      Mitsubishi’s error codes are consistent throughout their DLP line of TVs. Error code 38 means “Abnormally high lamp temperature” This can be due to poor air flow, or it can be the result of the lamp approaching its end of life. If you have not had any service on the TV since it was new, I would suspect a true blockage of air flow. Remove the lamp and inspect it for dust buildup. (DON’T REMOVE THE LAMP WHILE HOT) It can be safely vacuumed to clear the debris on the lamp filter. I would also look for an air inlet filter to determine if it also may have accumulated dust. Access to this filter may require removing the TV’s back cover, A low-effort option is to use a shop-vac vacuum on the air inlet in back of the set. This won’t completely clear the dust, but it will provide some removal.

      You may be interested in the number of hours of ‘on-time’ for your lamp. Press MENU on the remote control followed immediately by 2470. If you are approaching or past 5000 hours, the lamp itself might be causing your error code. I strongly urge owners of any DLP to keep a spare lamp in reserve. With the new lamp design of the WD-65835, my original lamp just passed 10,600 hours and is still going strong. But, I have noticed a ‘failure to ignite’ with the lamp about once every 150-200 power-on cycles. This is one of the symptoms of a lamp approaching its end-of-life.

      • Dr. John December 18, 2010 at 3:39 am #

        Bob, thank you very much for your advice, I will give your recommendations a try. You have been much more informative than the “experts” in “Operational Assistance” at Mitsubishi”!

    • Riyad Kalla December 21, 2010 at 10:15 am #

      Dr. John — very fishy. My experience with the “Air Flow” problem with the 831 series and beyond is that the TV will actually state on the screen in Yellow letters something about restricted air flow and then say “Shutting down” and turn off, so it’s pretty straight forward.

      My 831 series is almost 5 years old now so your 734 series is newer and I imagine would have the same prompt if it was an air flow issue… it’s possible it is something else or just a faulty system.

      If you do have a concrete error code from the TV, call Mits and just ask what it is to tell if you should get someone out there or not… maybe Error Code #38 is “nuclear meltdown” in which case you probably want to get that looked at :)

      • Dr. John December 21, 2010 at 11:30 am #

        Thank you Riyad for your comment. I spoke to two different “operational” experts at Mitsubish about Error code #38. One said that there is an air flow problem and that I should check all vents and clean the lamp carriage filter.This first operational expert also said that my problem is definitely the lamp. The other guy at Mitsubishi, Mike, said their is NO PROBLEM with your TV. He said your ambient room temperature is too high or your set is too near the wall. I told Mike that the room temperature is about 68 degrees and that my WD-73734 unit is at least eight inches from all walls.

        To further frustrate me, the insurance company, who I have a 5-year extended contract with, has just told me that they can do NOTHING for me since the problem never manifests itself while the service technician is in my house. I have told the insurance company that the problem occurs sporadically and that I cannot “schedule” the TV outage for the day the technician is due to come out. I even told the insurance company AND the service provider the exact error (#38) and they essentially say that they will not cover a service call unless the problem occurs while the repairman is in my home and can actually see the TV shut down. In other words, I will be stuck paying for the service call if my TV is working correctly when the repairman comes out. Absolutely amazing. Do these insurance companies think we consumers are idiots?

        • Bob December 21, 2010 at 12:03 pm #

          You can inform your insurance carrier that the last three failure codes are retained in the TV’s memory. That should be sufficient to diagnose the cause of the failure. This memory is specifically designed to help diagnose intermittent problems. If this doesn’t “change their mind” about having a tech come out, ask to talk to the manager.

  100. Matt December 19, 2010 at 1:38 am #

    I have a WD65735. Replaced bulb under 1 yr ago. The past 2 weeks, every time I turn on the set, I get full sound, but no picture. Green light from anywhere from a few seconds to a few min., then the red light “clicks” on (steady, not flashing) and tv powers down. We keep turning it back on and eventually, the pic shows up and its fine until we turn it off again. prob is, sometimes its 3 times, sometimes it is like freaking 300 times. I have opened up to make sure dust hasn’t over-accumulated, light seems fine….Any ideas?

    • Bob December 19, 2010 at 4:04 am #

      This sounds like a failure of the DLP lamp to ignite during startup. This could be caused by a defective lamp, ballast failure or defective fan(s). On most Mits DLP models, the measured RPMs of the fans interlocks the lamp ignition sequence until the fans are at proper speed.

      The simplest test is to swap out the DLP lamp. (Yes – the lamp SHOULD last more than a year) If that fails to clear the problem, it is time for a qualified Mits tech to perform a failure code readout. This should point to the specific cause of the failure.

  101. Paul December 22, 2010 at 8:46 pm #

    Hello I have a Mitsubishi WD 62327 TV. Over the weekend, we were watchign tv and the TV shut down, and left the status light flashing 4 times than steady.
    I reset the tv by pushing the input and format buttons at same time. The TImer light bliked greenadn the tv worked. The tv worked for about 2 days than it shut it self down again. Did the rest and now it working again.
    18 months ago I had a new optic block installed (# 939p977020).
    What would cause this to happen to the tv?


    • Bob December 22, 2010 at 9:23 pm #

      There are literally dozens of fault conditions that could cause your set to shut down. I am not familiar with your particular model, but the fact that the TV didn’t give you any indication on-screen tells me there might be something seriously wrong. These sets are so tightly interlocked with safety features that there may be no time to show you a failure code. This sounds like a case for a good Mits tech to resolve.

  102. sucker February 2, 2011 at 2:01 pm #

    Do not buy a Mitsubishi TV. I have had a problem with a 60″ rear projection and they do not stand behind this problem at all. The blog pages are full of this repair problem. What happen to Japanese Honor? There is no quality to their work and they run from repairs. They keep calling me and trying to sell me another crap TV instead of fixing. I am on hold again not getting anywhere as I blog. Next TV it will be a Sony, I have four of them and no problems.

  103. David February 28, 2011 at 5:48 am #

    I have a Mitsubish 52526 model that I got used…. replaced the lamp unit in Dec 2010 and am now having the same issue. TV comes on, sound is on but no pic. TV cuts off in about 20 secs and lamp light comes on. I checked the lamp and it appears to be in tact. I have heard much about a thermal sensor that needs to be replaced or reset. Any idea where this is located and the complexity of the repair. If I dont get this fixed there is gonna be a new type of March Madness in place. What is the cost of this part. The lamp was 100 bucks, what does the sensor run. The Fan does appear to be cycling on.

    • Riyad Kalla February 28, 2011 at 7:54 am #


      If you call Mits they can get a repair person out to fix that, I imagine it would run about $100 or less; a few folks in this thread have done it themselves, you might need to scroll back through the older comments or wait for Bob to chime in… he’s our Mits guru :)

    • Bob February 28, 2011 at 10:27 am #

      While I am not that familiar with the 52526, it sounds like the lamp fails to ignite. There could be many underlying causes for a DLP lamp to fail to ignite, but the majority of them lie in the lamp itself. If you plan to keep the TV, investing in a “spare” lamp is the cheapest form of insurance. If you find that the lamp is at fault, there may be a warranty on your defective bulb which will give you your spare lamp. Rarely, micro-cracks can develop in the glass of the arc lamp itself when heating or cooling which will cause the lamp’s hi-pressure gas to dissipate. If this happens, the lamp is trash. If replacing the lamp (again) doesn’t cure the lamp problem, (as Riyad recommends) a qualified MITS tech is certainly justified.

      You can visit the SUPPORT web page at: Click on SERVICE & fill in your address to locate an authorized MITS service rep.

  104. David February 28, 2011 at 1:50 pm #

    Thnks for your input, so in your oppinion it is probably the lamp even though it is not visibly broken? The last time it was obvious the lamp was bad. That led me to think it was possibly the thermal sensor. Oh well, it is supposedly under warranty, I bought it from Ebay so hopefully the return will go smooth.

    I will update when I get a new bulb for it. Hopefully that is it and not something more complex, although I was hoping there was some reset swith for the sensor I could push and have it on for tonight.

    • Bob February 28, 2011 at 2:31 pm #

      The system documents available at for your set (WD-52526) indicate that model has a SYSTEM RESET button on the front panel. To reinitialize the set, Press that RESET button. Try this from the ON state if possible, but it should also work with the set turned off but plugged into the wall. The TV will turn off and the green LED will flash quickly for about one minute. When the green LED stops flashing, you may try to turn on the TV again. The changes you made while the TV was most recently on, just before you used the SYSTEM RESET button, may be lost; the changes you made previously, however, are not lost. Only those changes since the last power on may be lost when the system reset button is pressed. All other settings are retained.

      Let me know if this works.

      If you browse to the site above, download all of the documents for permanent archive. MITS has occasionally discontinued support for some older models. This is an older set with limited HD capabilities. It DOES NOT SUPPORT 1080i or 1080p resolutions. Its maximum resolution is 720p.

      • Bob October 30, 2011 at 2:28 pm #


        • Glenn November 19, 2011 at 11:12 am #


          I have model WD-Y657 and also have the thermal sensor shutdown problem. TV sometimes works for weeks and then out of nowhere it just shuts down (set is 5 years old and still on original Lamp – set not used that often). Is the correct fix to get sensor part – “299P323010” and try to fix myself. I’m some what handy in doing these things. Any idea where to obtain this part from?

          Thanks for your reply

          • Bob November 19, 2011 at 12:14 pm #

            As a general rule, MITS does not have TV chassis parts available online. Your problem may be a simple case of connector failure. Your machine was manufactured during the era when MITS used the wrong crimp connector on the wires that joined the motherboard and the external lamp temperature sensor. MITS used a connector designed for solid conductors – they used stranded wiring. Toward the back of the lamp chamber, you will see the temperature sensor bolted to the chamber. Follow the wiring from the temp sensor (2-conductors) to the nylon connector. It is likely one of these two conductors is making an intermittent connection. An early MITS fix for this problem was to remove the nylon connector and physically solder the conductors together. …Or, you can bite the bullet and have an authorized service center replace the sensor. Browse to: and select SERVICE.

            • Brandon December 1, 2011 at 8:37 pm #

              I have this same problem WD-57733. It is out of warranty and I am pretty sure I can fix it myself with a bit of info. Where on the temp sensor do I solder at? Or can i get a replacement temp sensor as its 1 screw on one end and one plug on the other, very easy to physically replace. Any help would be greatly appreciated

              • Bob December 1, 2011 at 9:03 pm #

                The temp sensor problem is a bit more complicated than simply replacing it for the do-it-yourself person. I have come to the conclusion that MITS used the wrong type of connector when they designed the basic chassis configuration. The crimp connectors within the connector were designed for solid conductor wire with a PVC insulation of less than 0.012″ thick. MITS used stranded wire for the temp sensors. Thermal cycling caused the temp sensors to have an intermittent connection at that junction. The MITS solution was to remove the connector and solder the two wires permanently in place. The sensor is not polarity sensitive, so you don’t have to be careful about getting the two wires back to the corresponding wire from the sensor. The sensor is simply a temperature-sensitive resistor.

                • Brandon December 1, 2011 at 10:10 pm #

                  So the one that runs from the small circuit board near the DMD fan to the back of the entire lamp/ballast housing is the one I need to cut and solder? If so I’ll try that tomorrow. I just don’t want to mess up and wind up making the tv worse

  105. Bob December 4, 2011 at 9:02 am #

    The two wires to the sensor should have an in-line nylon connector. It is the wires at this connector that should be cut on both sides of the connector. If the wires are too short to be soldered, you may need a couple of extra pieces of wire. Solder those wires so as to bypass the connector entirely. You can use some heat-shrink tubing (Radio Shack) on those wires to insulate them. Use Caution: The stranded wire is fairly fragile and is easily broken when it is outside of its insulation. If the connector was faulty, this procedure should cure the “hi-temp” problem. If the sensor is at fault, this procedure can’t cause any harm.

    Note: The temperature sensor system was designed to avert a major fire in the TV set should one or more of the cooling fans fail. The arc lamp temperature can approach more than 1200 degrees with a failed fan. My set actually melted the lamp’s glass when the cooling was insufficient. The high temperature plastic around the connector also sagged. It is for this reason you should never leave a DLP television set unattended. When you turn off your MITS DLP television, the lamp will remain ON for approximately 60 seconds after being turned off. The screen will likely be black, but you can observe the lamp status through the vents in the back. The DLP lamp doesn’t go off until the front panel LED begins to blink. This is the only time that actual DLP lamp cooling is taking place.

    • Brandon December 5, 2011 at 10:30 pm #

      I tried that and it didn’t work. Maybe I didn’t solder well enough to make a connection after cutting the 2 connectors out. I may try to buy a new sensor and see if that solves the problem if I can find one that is

      • Bob December 6, 2011 at 8:25 am #

        There are two additional temperature sensors that might be causing your problem. One is attached to the base of the ballast transformer and the other is in the hot air channel that exhausts to the rear of the set. I have never heard of these failing before, so I am not sure of the cause. The MITS engineers wanted to be sure they had all the bases covered.
        Another potential cause is a very real rise in temperature in the lamp cooling air channel. If one of the fans begin to fail due to bearing seizure, the temperature could climb significantly. You may want to check the fan when you locate the temperature sensor. If there is any resistance to turning the fan by hand, have it replaced.

        • Bob March 10, 2012 at 8:25 am #

          Just a short note to let you know the WD65835 lamp in my set has now accumulated 16,588 hours thus far. This is far in excess if their estimated 8,000 lamp life hours. On rare occasions, the DLP lamp is now beginning to have the “Fail to Ignite” symdrome. But, it has always recovered after turning off the set and waiting for the front green light’s rapid blinking to stop.

    • Iful September 28, 2013 at 2:00 am #

      I also have “over heating” issue in my projector (EW270U). The projector is still able to display normal picture in few second (2~3 second) before it start to shutdown automatically. I’m sure the fan (in front the sensor), working perfectly.

      Just curious, If I measure the sensor with multimeter (ohm meter), what should be displayed in Ohm meter? OPEN or CLOSE circuit or have certain value.

      I’m on travelling and the problem appeared, so, can I manipulate the sensor temporary?

  106. Reg November 8, 2012 at 3:46 pm #

    I’ve got a 2007 WD-57831 that’s gone thru it’s expected number of lamps, but my problem seems to be a a bit unique here. It was fine when I turned it off one night, but the next day I turned it on and the brightness seemed to have dropped to more then half. I tried to adjust it and although you can see the level bar move, it stays @ same “too dark” level. I tried a new bulb, but that didn’t help att all.

    Any suggestions?

    • Bob November 9, 2012 at 9:05 am #

      Your symptom whereby you cannot control the brightness sounds like a possible electronics or a memory failure. If you feel comfortable taking “drastic” measures, you may want to reinitialize the TV back to factory defaults. This will cause the TV to lose ALL your previously entered settings.

      On your TV’s remote controller, press the MENU button followed by 2470 within ten seconds. A factory menu will appear with the top entry, INITIALIZE highlighted in green. Press ENTER to start the initialization process and follow the directions on the screen. Once the process is finished, check the Brightness with your remote controller. If your brightness level is once again under your control, you have likely “dodged the bullet”. If the brightness is still “dark”, you may wish to contact a MITS repair shop to replace the motherboard. (NOT CHEAP)

      Good Luck!

  107. HollyWD-65638 November 11, 2014 at 8:27 am #

    So I don’t know much about my Tv. We got it from our grandparents. We brought it up from Tennessee to Ohio. Set it up I’m thinking from the long drive the bulb was rattled around because it popped so load. We replaced the bulb. Set would stay on for 5 minutes and start going whitish grey colors flickering. Then shut down. I just bought a new cooling fan hope this works.

    • Bob November 11, 2014 at 10:23 am #

      The Mitsubishi DLP line is similar to the digital projection available at your local movie theater, although at lower resolution. (1K or 2K vs. 4K) Your description of “popped so load (sic) loud” is somewhat ominous. It implies that the bulb exploded in the lamp cartridge. Historically, this results in the destruction of the high-speed color wheel. If glass dust got into the color wheel, that could slow down the wheel and cause colors appearing grey and/or flickering. You could try to vacuum the lamp chamber in the TV to see if that helps. Pay particular attention to the small area in the chamber where the lamp focuses. If this remedy is not effective, the only other option is to replace the color wheel. This option must be done by an authorized Mitsubishi technician.

      • HollyWD-65638 November 11, 2014 at 10:29 am #

        From what it seems the bulb was all in tact when it indeed did explode. Like I said tv works good for a few minutes and the starts to flicker the turns itself off. I just wasn’t sure it it has 2 fans 1 inturnal and 1 that looks like it should be in a computer. I just bought the one that looks like it should be in a computer.

  108. Bob Hamm December 6, 2014 at 8:42 am #

    I have a Mitsubishi WD-57731. I have had it for at least 5 years. It has recently started shutting down soon after it is turned on and the red lamp lights up. At first it happened once or twice a day. This was 3 days ago, Today it will not go for more than 10 mins before shutting down. I am cleaning it out (not really a lot of dust) but still goes off. I do not see this model listed anywhere in this thread but the models are similar.

    I have also have had a minor, on-going problem when the set is turned on, I get sound but no picture. To resolve that we simply turn the set on and off until it works. It seems like a fan issue because when I hear the fan spin up during the start up, I know the picture will come on.

    Any thoughts on this mess I have?


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